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by Brian K. Smith

Ping'an Village & Rice Terraces

I met Yanhua one December day in 2009 when visiting the Longsheng Rice Terraces in the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. Chinese security had closed the only road for a visiting delegation from Africa. Yanhua asked me if I wanted to follow her down a trail to Huang Luo, her village, where we could have tea at her family's hotel. I gladly accepted her invitation and spent a pleasant afternoon there before continuing on to Guilin.

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photos by Brian K. Smith with text by Rick Green

Mutton Flat Bread Soup

According to legend, when Emperor Taizu (927-976) was returning home from a journey one day, he had spent much of his money and for food had only two large pieces of stale bread left. When his party came upon a shop selling mutton soup, they bought a bowl and broke the bread into the soup. Delighted with the result, he named it 羊肉泡馍 (yángròu pàomó), or "lamb soaked bread". So, adding bread or crackers to your soup has a long tradition.

Salted, boiled mutton for yangrou paomo.

Pàomó has since become a specialty of Shǎnxī. This Muslim-influenced dish is especially popular in the province's capital city, Xī'ān. There are two kinds: one made with mutton (羊肉泡馍, yángròu pàomó), one with beef (牛肉泡馍, niúròu pàomó). This is salted, boiled mutton for yángròu pàomó.

Mutton broth for yangrou paomo.

Mutton broth forms the base of this dish. Each restaurant will use its own signature mix of spices – including ginger, garlic, cassia bark, cumin, black pepper, chili, and star anise – to add to the water in which meat and bones are simmered for hours. The broth is then reserved for reheating and the meat for slicing to order.

Glass noodles, scallions, and flat bread in a bowl.

In addition to the broth, sliced meat, and bread, the basic yángròu pàomó recipe includes mung bean noodles and scallions. You may also find caraway, cardamom pods, cilantro, and wood ear fungus. Pickled garlic cloves and chili oil or paste are typical condiments found at the table to let you further adjust the flavour of the dish to your taste.

Mixing yangrou paomo ingredients in a wok.

Traditionally, customers tear hard, unleavened flat bread into a bowl in very small pieces at their table. Broth boiled with the other ingredients is then brought to the table for diners to mix the bread into or the bread is taken to the kitchen to add. These days, many restaurants will prepare the entire dish in the kitchen, even cutting the bread into small pieces.

Yangrou paomo is ready to serve.

As a hearty dish, yángròu pàomó is particularly comforting when hunger is grumbling in your belly and the weather is cold. In Xī'ān, the best place to find it is in the Muslim Quarter, adjacent to the Drum Tower. However, with a reported 40,000 Muslim eateries spread out across the city, you're sure to come across it in other neighbourhoods as well.

Duwaniu Yangrou Paomo Restaurant staff.

Of course, Xī'ān is most famous for the Terracotta Army. Also noteworthy is its large Muslim population. As the starting point of the Silk Road, the ancient capital attracted Persian and Central Asian Muslim traders who were welcomed and even appointed as officials. Their descendants intermarried with the Hàn, eventually forming the Huí ethnic group. Today, the Huí are largely indistinguishable from the Hàn majority except for their religious practices. This means you won't find pork in their restaurants or, often, alcohol.

Duwaniu Yangrou Paomo Restaurant, Xi'an

The yángròu pàomó featured in this article was enjoyed at:

Dūwániú Yángròu Pàomó (嘟娃牛羊肉泡馍)
No. 38, Jiànguó Road
Bēilín District, Xī'ān
碑林区建国路38号 (近建国门)
Tel: 150 2905-2923
Hours: 9:00am - 9:00pm

Further Recommended Resources

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by Rick Green

Rick Green drinking a beer after a five-hour hike.Beer and travel often go hand-in-hand. Perhaps that's what Frank Zappa had in mind when he said, "You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline." While I'm indifferent to flying on a national carrier if there is one, I am interested in sampling the local brew in the company of curious citizens or fellow travellers. It's a great way to chill after a day of active exploring, engaging in grassroots international relations or exchanging information.

Being a beer geek, a topic of discussion that always interests me is where to find good beer. However, cold beer is cold, cheap beer is cheap. When people say cold, cheap beer is "good", they usually don't mean the flavour. More often than not, it's because of the context – the walls are sweating and you can beat the heat over a few bottles without putting a big dent in your limited budget. Feeling refreshed is good. The price is good. So why isn't that good beer?

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by Rick Green

Spaghetti Wires Over Bui Vien Street

A day of touring Saigon's Cholon District by cyclo had given Brian and I some hunger pangs. So, we stepped out of our hotel and strolled down Bui Vien Street in search a restaurant offering good, sit-down Vietnamese food. After about five minutes of searching in vain, we were struck by the number of places that offered anything but. Indian, Italian, Mexican… Where was the fabled food that sent Anthony Bourdain over the moon?

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