Unexpected for the Beer Connected
By Rick Green

F

or those who take tours with set itineraries, there isn't much opportunity for spontaneity. At least you don't need a lot of preparation. The independent traveller, on the other hand, must spend considerable time engaged in research. It can take some effort to sort the current information from the dated, informed from the embellished. Even then, once you are in country, it takes time to familiarize oneself with the lay of the land. This can be a significant limitation on short vacations.

The solution is to have connections. In the case of the European brews traveller, CAMRA membership is a key that can open doors that may not otherwise be revealed to a typical tourist. My visit to Amsterdam is a case in point.

To my wife's credit, she discovered through the World Wide Web that a bock beer festival was on during our stay. Against her better judgement, she shared this information with me. Needless to say, there was no question of my attending. A bock beer festival in Amsterdam? There had to be something going on in a different tangent from Heineken and Grolsch. In anticipation of writing an article for you, fellow members, I contacted the organizer for entry information.

I received a cordial reply from Theo Flissebaalje of PINT (Promotie en Informatie Traditioneel Bier), the Dutch beer consumer advocacy group associated with CAMRA through the European Beer Consumers Union. An hour before the official opening of the 29^th annual Bokbierfestival, industry and press were to be admitted. I was welcome to join them. This proved extremely helpful as it facilitated my speaking with people, taking photographs, and tasting without the hindering crowds that swiftly filled up the hall an hour later.

Unlike some festivals that are held at fairgrounds or sports venues on the outskirts of town, Amsterdam's Bokbierfestival takes place in the heart of the city at the Beurs van Berlage. The city's former stock exchange, it was designed by Handdrik Petrus Berlage in a functional Romanesque Revival style and completed in 1903. Tasting takes place in the Main Hall, a 1600 m² space where commodities trading once took place. The beer taps are set up inside a series of arched openings along the sides of the hall. After you've filled your 200ml tasting goblet, you can perform your sampling rituals at one of a handful of tall tables scattered about the floor. When it's time for the next contender, four glass-washing stations at each of the hall's quadrants ensure your specimen remains unadulterated.

Good beer, good music, and a festive atmosphere put a smile on your face.

Now one could be forgiven for thinking that many of the beers must have come from Germany. There were three — Andechs, Einbeck, and Weihenstephan. Another five were Belgian, with the balance representing domestic breweries. Dutch bokbiers, like their German namesakes, are sweet, strong beers with at least 6.5% alcohol by volume — the strongest at the festival being SNAB's 9% IJsbok. However, all bokbiers aren't bottom-fermented; only 13 were, generally corresponding to the larger breweries. The smaller operations almost exclusively offered unfiltered, unpasteurized ales. Many had undergone secondary fermentation.

Since this "24 hours of beer" (spread over three days) is the largest Dutch beer festival, it was impossible to go through all of the beers on offer — 63 this time. Seasoned punters tend to concentrate on the small brewers, as their limited distribution means it may be the only time their products can be found in Amsterdam. You can further narrow your choices to the winners of the "Best Bock Bier of The Netherlands" competition. Simply visit their Web site beforehand. This is a serious contest that had 105 judges evaluate 33 bokbiers in the beginning of October.

It was during the announcement of the contest winners at the Bokbierfestival that I recognized Peter van der Arend from a photo on his beer café's Web site. Most specialist beer bars in Amsterdam focus on Belgian beers. Peter's 't Arendsnest (Eagle's Nest) serves nothing but beer from Dutch brewers. He currently carries 350 different beers from more than 50 breweries served either from his 21 taps or from bottles. As his goal is to have at least one beer from each Dutch brewer, I thought this was the ideal place to survey the nation's offerings.

As Peter alighted from the stage, I introduced myself, reminding him of the e-mail I sent to him expressing my interest in visiting his café. He graciously invited me over, although he was leaving the festival shortly to go there for only a couple of hours before returning home to his wife. She had just given birth to a baby girl the week before. If I could drop by, he would offer me a sample of Roosje. This limited-batch beer was brewed by Amsterdam's de Prael especially for the occasion and named after Peter's daughter.

Hmmmmmm. Fifty-six more bokbiers anxiously awaiting the kiss of my lips or a single, one-of-a-kind mystery beer that may never be seen again. Was there a choice?

Exit stage left, and I headed in the direction of Herengracht 90 through the bustle of the Damrak with a crude Google map printout. Of course it's impossible to travel very far in a straight line with this straat turning into that steeg. Then there are the distractions. I know what you're thinking! No. I'm talking about stumbling across the famous beer bar, In de Wildeman, with a group of friendly locals outside proffering a bolleke (Antwerp slang for a glass of De Koninck).

I am a stone.

Okay, I actually stopped; just for a quick quaff — only an idiot would refuse free Belgian beer.

De Prael's limited edition Roosje

Round the corner onto the Herengracht and in two short blocks the warm lights of 't Arendsnest beckoned from across the dark, sleepy canal. Not so inside where an animated crowd was clearly enjoying themselves. Peter beckoned from the nearest table to join his party and signalled to Robin at the bar for a glass of Roosje. A slender-stemmed thistle glass of scarlet liquid was duly delivered for investigation.

For brewer Marcel Snater, this was an interesting project — how to give expression to the personalities of mother, father, and child in a beer. The answer? Use an expressive Belgian yeast strain and some wheat malt to represent baby Roos. Mother Kim is not fond of carbonation, therefore, Roosje has half the carbonation of regular Dutch beers. Peter, on the other hand, is a hophead who dislikes wheat. A combination of black and Cara malts with Hallertau hops brings some male characteristic to the brew.

The resulting amber-style ale came in at a pleasant 6%. Its fruity nose immediately reminded me of a Duchesse de Bourgogne or a Rodenbach Grand Cru, but without the oak. The moderate carbonation would please Kim, but, perhaps the mild hop bitterness would leave Peter feeling somewhat unfulfilled. Nevertheless, for me, it was a well-balanced, thoroughly enjoyable session beer that I could drink the entire evening. Childbirth should be so easy.

Pumpkin time approached. And with an appropriate glow, I reluctantly took leave of my new acquaintances. In one hand I had my Bokbierfestival tasting glass, in the other a bottle of the precious Roosje. Two days later, all three arrived in Vancouver without mishap.

I found it ironic that one of my most pleasurable drinking experiences was in a country one does not readily associate with beer. Yet, excellent Dutch beer is not difficult to find. That is because PINT is in the same battle to preserve traditional beer as we are. CAMRA membership says to them, "We are one of you!" Therefore, if you establish some connections before visiting The Netherlands, the Heineken Experience may seem rather bland in contrast.

Note: Roosje is now sold out. Let's encourage Peter and Kim to have another child!